Kantha stitch: How Bengal's household embroidery technique became a fashion sensation

Kantha Stitch is a 500-year-old popular embroidery that originated from the Indian state of West Bengal and is now popular in the world of fashion globally, including in nations like the UK and Japan.

History

This embroidery was started by women in olden times, as a method to stitch old clothes at home. Kantha was born by putting rags over rags and sewing them together using the technique called "running stitch" or "moving stitch" in common language.

During the 19th century, Kantha stitch was on the verge of extinction. That’s when Rabindranath Tagore's wife Pratima Devi raised awareness about it and encouraged other women to pursue this embroidery to earn their living through it. And this is how this art was saved from being lost.

Clothes used for this embroidery

In earlier times, this embroidery was used only on silk and cotton clothes, but now it is also being used on chiffon, crepe and georgette clothes.

What was this embroidery used for in the past?

Earlier, this embroidery was used to make soft mattresses for babies, bed sheets, and door mats. Women used to collect 5-6 old sarees or dhotis and sew them by placing one on top of the other, to make soft beds for children.

Contemporary usage

Earlier this embroidery was used only for making children's bedding and blankets, but with time it became popular in the world of fashion and the straight stitched evolved into zigzag, cross, lines and various patterns like elements of nature, human figures, among other designs.

Now this type of embroidery is being done on sarees, salwar suits, kurtas etc. It can even be seen on handkerchiefs, tablecloths, shawls, pillow covers, jackets, bags, dupattas, and household items. Nowadays many fashion brands and fashion designers have incorporated Kantha embroidery into their design palette.

Also watch: Ikat print: Here's how this 1000 year old handloom from Odisha is now ruling the western fashion