Ikat is talk of the town once again, following Team India's Olympics uniform: Know all about it

Ace Indian fashion designer Tarun Tahiliani was recently grappled by controversy after he used 3D Ikat inspired prints and his own logo for the Paris Olympics uniforms for Team India. Experts have argued that ikat is a traditional handloom weaving technique and mere ikat prints undermine the craftsmanship of Indian artisans and weavers.Let’s delve more into Ikat and its market value.

What is Ikat?

Ikat weaving basically means to tie or bind and it is derived from the Indonesian word mengikat. Ikat was earlier used for religious activities and was mainly made in Odisha, Telangana and Gujarat. If scholars are to be believed, Ikat weaving in India dates to the 12th century CE but this print's history is not just restricted to India. This fine printing technique was found in places around Central, South and Southeast Asia, and South America.

Why is Ikat so expensive?

Ikat involves a complex method of dyeing yarns before they are woven into fabric. Each thread must be carefully bound and dyed in specific patterns, which requires significant skill and precision. The dyeing process can be repeated multiple times to achieve the desired color and design. Creating ikat fabrics typically involves artisans who have mastered the technique over the years. Their expertise and the time invested in creating high-quality ikat contribute to its cost.

Types of Indian Ikat and their market value

Patola Ikat: This is one of the most renowned forms of ikat from Gujarat. Prices can range from ₹20,000 to ₹1,00,000 (or more) per saree or fabric, depending on the design and quality.

Ikats from Andhra Pradesh: In Andhra Pradesh, especially in the regions of Pochampally and Gadwal, ikat fabrics are priced from ₹5,000 to ₹30,000 per saree or fabric piece.

Khandua Ikat: In Odisha, Khandua ikat is renowned for its unique patterns and colours. Prices can range from ₹10,000 to ₹50,000 per saree.

In international high-end boutiques and luxury fashion stores, ikat fabrics can command premium prices. For instance, a high-quality ikat silk saree or fabric might range from $300 to $10,000 or more, depending on its complexity and the reputation of the brand.Ikat has played a massive role in the handloom revival in India, and it was known to represent a person's cultural and textile taste.

Ikat then and now

During the post-Independence era, our late-Prime Minister Indira Gandhi and her best friend Pupul Jayakar, and others used to wear this print.
And now, with its global reach and a Western touch, celebrities are seen flaunting the Ikat pattern with style and grace in various forms like kaftan, dresses, skirts, pantsuits, co ord sets etc.

Also watch: Jwala Gutta & fashion experts criticise Team India's Olympics uniforms, designer responds