Montreal, Sep 8 (The Conversation) Despite the ever-changing and momentary nature of the fashion world, few designers have left a mark as profound as Giorgio Armani, who has passed away in Milan at the age of 91.
The style and attitude Armani introduced five decades ago have become so familiar that they’re often overlooked. At first glance, they appear understated, but from the beginning, Armani's goal was to offer customers a way of dressing that was both practical and sophisticated, thoughtful yet unpretentious, powerful yet subtle.
His suits demanded little effort from the wearer, allowing their individuality and identity to shine, rather than being overshadowed by their attire. This approach to tailoring paralleled the rise of health and fitness awareness in the '70s and '80s.
Armani’s focus on body-conscious fashion quickly caught Hollywood's eye, leading to his collaboration on the wardrobe for Richard Gere in the 1980 cult-classic film, "American Gigolo."
Humble Beginnings Born in 1934 in the small northern Italian town of Piacenza, Armani initially seemed destined for a career as a country family doctor. However, he founded his fashion house in 1975, relatively later in life at 41, having entered the fashion industry as a window dresser at the Milanese department store La Rinascente.
In 1961, he joined the Cerruti family’s textile factory, working for Nino Cerruti. This environment became foundational for Armani's future in textile development and his signature aesthetic.
While designing for Cerruti's Hitman menswear collection, Armani literally and figuratively "took the stuffing out" of traditional Italian tailoring, offering men a modern perspective and a more relaxed way of wearing jackets and suits.
Throughout his 50-year career, the iconic, versatile Armani jacket provided both men and women with a blend of comfort and support, almost like armor.
With encouragement from his romantic and business partner, architect Sergio Galeotti, Armani officially launched his fashion house in July 1975.
Armani revolutionized both menswear and womenswear by blending traditional men's tailoring fabrics into his womenswear collections while softening the fabrics and silhouettes of menswear.
The result was that women appeared stronger and more independent, ready to conquer the workplaces of the 1980s, while Armani's menswear offered a less aggressive yet attractive and glamorous appeal.
Conquering Hollywood For "American Gigolo," Armani bypassed vulgarity, imbuing the lead character with a seamless, unstructured swagger and irresistible allure.
Hollywood was captivated. Armani, enamored with the classic cinema era icons like Katharine Hepburn and Cary Grant, recognized the cultural power of dressing film stars as well as the untapped potential of the red carpet.
His influence on red carpet fashion was so monumental that the 1990 Oscars were dubbed the “Armani Awards” by industry magazine Women's Wear Daily.
This red carpet evolution resulted from Armani’s love for cinema, his business savvy, and his collaboration with Wanda McDaniel. Recruited in 1988, the same year he opened his first boutique in Beverly Hills, McDaniel, an American social columnist with elite Hollywood connections, was hired as a special liaison to Armani's burgeoning film industry clientele.
Their partnership became an industry powerhouse.
Armani’s Personal Abode Driven by an unwavering commitment, Armani blurred the lines between personal and professional life. His palazzo at 21 via Borgonuovo in Milan served not only as his home but also as the venue for his runway shows from 1984 to 2000.
This setting offered an intimate glimpse into a burgeoning lifestyle empire.
In addition to co-curating a 25-year retrospective at New York’s Guggenheim Museum, Armani in 2000 expanded the brand’s essence into a global lifestyle that now includes hotels, spas, Michelin-starred restaurants, makeup, jewelry, home furnishings, and chocolates, among others.
From his effortless unstructured jacket to the social media-frenzied red carpets, Armani's influence permeates every facet of fashion and beyond.
His legacy and impact will resonate for generations. (The Conversation)
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