Kabul, Jul 30 (AP) They strolled through the museum, listening intently as their guide described the antiquities behind the glass. It could have been a typical tour group from anywhere in the world. However, this group was unique.
The visitors at the National Museum of Afghanistan were exclusively women, guided by one of Afghanistan’s first female tour guides in a nation that imposes the strictest restrictions on its female population.
Somaya Moniry, 24, was initially unaware of the tour guide profession. While browsing the internet to enhance her English skills, she discovered Couchsurfing, an app that connects travelers with locals offering homestays.
After hosting her first visitor, Moniry found a newfound passion. “It was fascinating and unlike anything I had heard of, so I thought, why not do this?” she said. Her initial venture into guiding opened her eyes to a different perspective on her homeland.
“What I mostly heard about Afghanistan was negativity, emphasized by media and others, and that was a strong influence,” Moniry noted.
For Moniry, Afghanistan is complex and beautiful, despite its challenges stemming from prolonged conflict. She wants to share the nuanced beauty of her country and shift global perceptions.
“Seeing the nature, beauty, and positivity here changed my perspective entirely. I believe others can see it too,” said Moniry eagerly in English. One such visitor, 82-year-old Australian Suzanne Sandral, joined Moniry’s women-only tour in Kabul after a long desire to visit Afghanistan since the 1960s.
Sandral found Afghanistan to be unexpectedly welcoming. “I expected fear and accusatory looks, but I found welcoming smiles and friendliness instead,” she said during a tour break.
Similarly, independent traveler Jackie Birov from Chicago praised Afghan hospitality but acknowledged her greater freedom compared to local women.
The tourism industry in Afghanistan, albeit in its infancy due to decades of war, is gaining traction. The Taliban’s August 2021 takeover, while prompting mass exodus and global shock, led to reduced violence as the insurgency ended.
Though sporadic attacks by an Islamic State affiliate occur and Western nations warn against traveling to Afghanistan, improved security is drawing visitors captivated by the scenery, rich history, and cultural hospitality.
The industry remains small, with annual visitors numbering in the low thousands, mostly independent adventurous travelers. However, more guided tours from countries like China, Greece, the Netherlands, and the UK are emerging.
The Taliban government, struggling for international recognition with only Russia extending it in July, sees tourism’s economic potential and welcomes it. Tourist visas are relatively straightforward to obtain from certain embassies, and regular flights connect Kabul to cities like Dubai and Istanbul.
Yet, ethical questions arise for some regarding tourism in Afghanistan, given the government’s harsh treatment of women. Girls are barred from education beyond primary levels, and women face strict public restrictions, including dress codes and prohibitions from parks and restaurants. Professions available to women are limited.
Nevertheless, proponents of Afghan tourism argue for its positive impacts.
“I’m a firm believer in ethical tourism,” stated Zoe Stephens, a British tour leader at Koryo Tours. “You can separate politics from people; a country is more than its politics—it’s its culture, history, and especially the people.”
Of the three tours Stephens led, two were women-only, with support from local female guides like Moniry. These tours mix iconic sites with engagements at women’s centers and classes in cooking and embroidery run by local women—opportunities not available to male tourists.
“We aim to offer unique tours that additionally benefit the community by collaborating with female guides,” Stephens explained. “Our women’s tours address ethical issues and aim to educate about Afghan women’s lives in context.” The tours are intimate, hosting groups of three to eight, with a focus on expanding the network of female guides nationwide.
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